Where
Chiang Mai lies 754 kilometres north-west of Bangkok between Laos and Burma.
Why go?
Chiang Mai is Thailand’s northern hub – a cosmopolitan mix of international trade and agriculture. Visit the ancient walled city and temples, and day-trip into surrounding mountains and rice fields. Chiang Mai residents are very proud of their Lanna (northern) culture.
Must eats
Lanna-style food is less hot and spicy than southern Thai cuisine, with strong influences of both Shan and Burmese cuisine. Chicken and pork are key ingredients. Crispy pork skin is a common accompaniment to curries, salads and nam prik: a series of hot spicy dips served with a platter of fresh seasonal vegetables and herbs. Many darker curries have a gamey flavour and often contain chunky pieces of pork offal and black sausage.
Kao soi is a mild pork/chicken curry with coconut milk served with yellow fried egg noodles. It is a popular street food and available at the Anusan Night Market, Night Bazaar, or the Saturday and Sunday Walking Markets. Try thick Chiang Mai sausage: pork mince mixed with local herbs and spices and served sliced over rice.
Most meals in Chiang Mai are served with sticky rice (khao niew) that can be squeezed into balls. A dessert version (kao niew ma muang) features mango and coconut milk.
Many of the local organic herbs, fruit, flowers and vegetables are the product of The Royal Project Foundation. The “King’s Project” aims to break the cycle of poverty, deforestation and narcotics cultivation for Thais and Hilltribe people, providing alternative crops, infrastructure and technology. Visit the wholesale Muang Mai or the Sompet markets for fresh produce.
The locally grown coffee is excellent. For a quiet coffee, cocktail, modern Lanna cuisine and funky crafts and fashion, try located at The House.
Best food souvenirs
Lanna-style silver tableware and cutlery, ceramic/wood dishes and platters.
Best time to visit
June is the best month to enjoy ripe Thai fruits such as mangosteen and giant lychee.
How to get there
Many airlines offer cheap one-hour flights from Bangkok, or fly direct from Asian hubs. Catch a train (sleeper carriage or seat) from Hualamphong Station, Bangkok. It takes about 10 hours. Or buses leave from Mo Chit station in north Bangkok. Be prepared for squishy seats and unreliable air-conditioning for an average 11-hour trip.
Where to stay
The is central. Basic Deluxe rooms start at THB 6,777. Book a room facing the garden or river as roadside rooms are noisy. The gift shop showcases quality Lanna crafts, clothes and books.
Recommended books
Lanna Style: Art & Design of Northern Thailand by William Warren with photographs by Ping Amranand.
Don't miss on Thursdays at 8pm on SBS ONE as he travels through Thailand. Here's a taste of his recipe.
